Nanfang’ao Nantian Temple
Today, we left the bustle of Taipei behind and followed the east coast southward until we reached Nanfang’ao—a small yet vibrant fishing town tucked into the southeastern edge of Yilan County, where steep, mist-covered green mountains plunge straight into the Pacific Ocean. It’s no polished resort—not that I need my ports to be polished. Instead, it pulses with the life of a working harbor: the salty tang of the sea mingled with unfamiliar scents, the shouts of dockworkers, and clusters of tourists hunting for seafood restaurants, while rows of fishing boats rock gently in the water.
The entrance welcomes with the hue of soft purple light and the glow of rows of ceiling lanterns.
At the heart of the town stands Nantian Temple, home to the sea goddess Mazu. Her name, 媽祖, combines 媽 (mā, “mother”) and 祖 (zǔ, “ancestor”), meaning “Ancestral Mother” or “Revered Mother Ancestor.” She is venerated as a divine maternal protector—both guardian and ancestral figure—for all whose lives are bound to the ocean, from fishermen setting out before dawn to families waiting on shore for their safe return. In Japan, her closest counterpart might be Ebisu, the cheerful god of fishermen and good fortune, who is likewise celebrated in coastal towns for ensuring safe voyages and bountiful catches.
Here I catch a glimpse of a golden Mazu. A stunning depiction framed by some incredibly intricate ornamentation.
View of the harbor from the temple veranda
Yes, I can’t help make comparisons here. Temples in Taiwan feel markedly different from those in Japan—much more vibrant, more woven into the fabric of daily life—yet the underlying principle is the same: a veneration of something higher, and a place for communion either with yourself of with that lies which lies beyond the veil of the material world.
Whether you believe in the spiritual or prefer the inspirational notion that everything in the universe arose from chance and is ultimately meaningless, there is always value in stepping outside the material world even just for five minutes. And even if it’s only for pretend. It here where you can quiet the mind, breathe in the incense, and show a recognition for belief systems that have guided mankind for thousands of years. The fact that these places still attract people clearly shows that the spirit of humankind still longs for a connection to the sacred.